Albert Eggler

Albert Eggler was born in Brienz, in the Bernese Oberland, as the son of a notary. He studied law in Bern and Berlin and then was admitted to the Bar and became a lawyer.

In the Swiss militia army, Eggler gained leadership experience in managerial positions in military mountain courses and extensive knowledge of cooperation in mountain conditions, becoming a captain in the mountain troops. He was a member of the Academic Alpine Club Bern (AACB) since 1934 and belonged to the mountaineering elite around Wolfgang Diehl, who followed the development of ascents in the Himalayas. In 1953 he became a member of the Berne section of the SAC Swiss Alpine Club, which made him an honorary member in 1967.

Eggler led the Swiss Himalayan expedition in 1956, which made the first ascent of Lhotse and the second and third ascents of Mount Everest. From 1964-67 he was central president of the Swiss Alpine Club, in 1966 he was chief of the Army avalanche service and from 1968-72 was president of the UIAA. From 1987-93 he was President of the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research.

Eggler was an internationally renowned expedition leader and promoter of Swiss Alpinism, as well as an honorary member of the SAC.